Raw Denim: Complete Guide for Beginners (Sanforized, One Wash, Sizes, and Weight)

Entering the world of Japanese raw denim doesn’t just mean buying a pair of jeans. It means embarking on a journey of conscious choices, waiting, transformations, and above all, personal experience. Raw denim is not a “ready-to-wear” item: it’s a travel companion that changes with you, day by day.

For this reason, before taking your first step, there are some fundamental truths you should know. Common mistakes, technical misunderstandings, and impulsive purchases can ruin the experience — and make you waste time and money.

Here’s what you really should know before entering the world of raw selvedge denim.

Raw Denim: a second skin that’s built over time

Raw denim is not designed to offer immediate comfort. It starts stiff, thick, and "crunchy," but over time, it softens and molds to the movements of your body. Every fold, every nuance, every mark tells your story.

This is what makes it so special: there are no two pairs of raw denim alike.

But to achieve an authentic result, you have to start in the right way.

Sanforized or not sanforized: the choice that changes everything

This is the first real fork in your journey.

Not sanforized: denim in its purest form

It’s “virgin” denim:

Unwashed
Not pre-shrunk
Rich in irregularities
Designed to shrink by 8-15%

Traditionally, it’s shaped to your body by soaking in hot water. A fascinating ritual, but not for everyone.

Sanforized: no surprises

The denim is treated with steam and pressure to stabilize its size.
Result:

More predictable fit
No drastic shrinking
Perfect for first-time buyers

The perfect compromise: non-sanforized “one wash”

It retains:

Texture
Slub
Wild character

But eliminates:

Excess starch
Extreme stiffness
Risk of unpredictable shrinkage

It’s one of the smartest choices for those looking for top-quality with less stress.

“But does it really fade?”

Yes. And it will do so magnificently.
Even if it’s been washed once, indigo-dyed denim is designed to age with abrasion, not with water.
The fades will come with use, over time.

And that’s the beauty of it.

Denim weight: a seasonal choice

Weight radically changes the experience:

10–12 oz → Light, spring/summer
12.5–15 oz → Mid-weight, three seasons
15 oz + → Heavyweight, perfect for winter and cold climates

Heavyweight denim:

Protects from the cold
Fades faster
Needs to be washed more regularly to prevent premature wear

The great sizing deception

One of the most common mistakes occurs here.

Store jeans use “vanity” sizes, inflated to make the wearer feel better.
Raw denim, on the other hand, uses true measurements.

The correct method:

Take a pair of jeans that fits well
Measure it while laid flat
Compare those measurements with the brand's chart
Use the sanforized as your baseline reference

This way, you avoid costly mistakes and frustration.

Raw denim is not fashion. It’s transformation.

The beauty of raw denim is not its initial aesthetics — it’s what it becomes after months and years of use.
The creases behind the knees, the fades on the pockets, the marks from the wallet, work, and daily life.

Each pair becomes a textile biography.

And that’s why raw denim is not something you choose in a hurry.